The original fuel pump was still on the engine block when I removed it from the chassis. It doubles up as a fuel pump and a vacuum pump and is driven off of the cam shaft.
After sitting for many years, the pump inside was in a pretty sorry state. Corrosion had built up inside and seized all of the valves. Even the diaphragms crumbled to bits when handled to remove them.
After a session in the blast cabinet, the body and caps came up nicely. I initially ordered an original rebuild kit for the fuel pump which I was only able to use half of as the diaphragms included were not suitable for modern fuel. I then found another kit from LWD Parts which made from modern materials and allowed me to complete the rebuild.
M3A1 fuel pump
M3A1 scout fuel pump rebuild kit
Rebuilt M3A1 Scout car fuel pump
Whilst stripping the truck down I was impressed that the M3A1 Scout Car used a disk brake style system for the handbrake. A disk, similar to one found on any modern car, is bolted between the prop shaft and transfer box. The brake pads then clamp the disk when the handbrake lever is applied in the cab. It is all controlled by rods which look in perfect condition.
After an initial sandblast the hand brake mechanism looked in great shape, apart from the pads which were worn down to the rivets! Every thing came apart nicely which was a relief, with all of the bronze bushings and steel pins showing very little signs of wear.
I managed to pick up a new set of NOS pads, which I think are a French copy from the late 40’s – 50’s, although the rivets which came with them were wrong, the pads themselves were perfect.
Once the pads were riveted in place it was just a case of a few layers of paint and the re-assemble. There are quite a few adjusting points on the pads handbrake to make sure the pads run true to the disk and that there is not too much free play in the lever. I can only set this up once the mechanism is back in the truck.
Blasted and primed
New pads ready to install
Pads installed and riveted
M3A1 parking brake restored
Ready to install
I always knew the tyres would be a tricky item to find as not many manufacturers produce the odd 8.25 – 20 size that the M3A1 Scout Car uses, particularly in a bar tread pattern. Luckily a tip-off by my friend, Kevin, came good with a French company, Lys-Tout-Terrain, having listed a fresh batch for sale. They are brand new and made by a company called Speed Way Tyres. I’m looking forward to getting theses mounted and on the Scout!
8.25 X 20 tyres
8.25 x 20 tyres
8.25 x 20 tyres
The voltage regulator sits proud on the firewall of the M3A1 Scout Car and is in plain sight when the bonnet is lifted. It’s items like these that I always like to pay special attention to when restoring, particularly with detailing as they are lovely bits of eye candy to break up the olive drab seen everywhere else. The voltage regulator was, mechanically, in great condition and tested fine, aesthetically though it looked as if it had been kicked around a barn floor for 30 years! I started by stripping what was left of the original paint and then used a fine wet and dry to sand the rust back from the data tag, but trying to keep the detail as best I could. Once prepared, I used a VHT wrinkle finish paint to match the original finish and then a green enamel based paint for the tag. The original cadmium plating on the terminal box could not be saved so I used a Frosts cadmium effect spray which turned out reasonably well although a tad blue perhaps! Looking forward to bolting this gem on to the bulkhead!
M3A1 Voltage Regulator restored
Clean as a whistle inside
Corroded data plate
Ready for paint
Waiting for the paint to wrinkle
Looking smart and read to install
After being sandblasted and primed, I noticed one of the damper units had suffered a lot more corrosion than the others. So much so, that oil fill plug had been completely eroded away. The plugs have a taller head than a standard bolt so I decided to repair the existing one rather than replace with something that didn’t match the original design.
I started by extracting what was left of the original bolt by welding a nut on to the end of the corroded lump. Once removed, the nut was cut off and then the end of the thread faced in a lathe to create a flat surface. I found a nut in the scrap bin which matched the hex size and had plenty of height to match the original plug. This was then cut to size and brazed onto the original piece of thread. Once screwed in it now matches the other 3 damper units perfectly!
Repaired drain plug
Corroded drain plug M3A1 damper
Welded on nut to extract plug
Plug removed and scrap nut to replace
New top brazed onto old thread
Ready to install